Day trip to Syracuse

Although we stayed in Syracuse 12 years ago, as it is a beautiful town we thought a day trip from Noto was in order.  An obligatory visit to the cathedral in Piazza del Duomo and the Castello Maniace followed by lunch at the markets. Lots of tourists about as it is a public holiday tomorrow and lots of Italians and other Europeans are soaking up the lovely weather.

Noto

We are now staying in Noto possibly the most beautiful (and most popular)  of the baroque towns in Sicily.  Gorgeous churches and pallazzi - even the staircases are artistic. I also have it from a reliable source that some scenes from season 2 of white lotus were filmed here. 

Pretty staircase 

Modica

A sojourn to Modica today another baroque town about 30 minutes from Ragusa. Beautiful churches and lots of steps! 

Ragusa

Yesterday we hired a car to drive from Agrigento to Ragusa.  The weather was warm so we made a stop at the beach at Mafria for a swim. We has some heart palpitations driving to our accommodation on the narrow streets of Ragusa.  We are now without the car and so it was lots of stairs down and up to the old town today. I got sweaty palms watching a Mercedes 4wd scrape it's sides as it tried get to through the very narrow old town streets.

Mafria beach 

Ragusa ibla

Agrigento

We were here 12 years ago but still amazing.  Valley of the Temples.

Marsala

We are still in western Sicily in Marsala, home of the sweet fortified wine you may have drunk as a teenager. There are lots of wineries in the area and wine bars in Marsala serving up mainly red and white wines ( but not much marsala).  We went to Donnafugata winery yesterday for a tasting and paired with Sicilian local delicacies. Wines good although they have recently partnered with Dolce and Gabbana to produce a range with trendy labels.  Appears to have tripled the price!   The fabulous archaeological museum contains remains of a warship sunk during the first Punic War.  The Phoenicians were quite advanced for 3rd century bc. Marsala is a town with baroque buildings and food with Arab influences. Cous Cous is excellent! 

 

Segesta

A trip today to Segesta about 45 minutes from Trapani. The archaeological site contains amongst other less preserved ruins, a Doric temple built by the Elymians in 420 BC and a Greek theatre with views down the valley towards the Gulf of Castellamare. Both the temple and the theatre are still used for events and performances.

Temple !

Egadi Islands - Favignana

Today we took the hydrofoil from Trapani to Favignana one of the Egadi Islands about 30 minutes away. We did not attempt to walk to the Castela di Santa Caterina a ruined 15th century fort atop the hill. Better to spend time on the beach and having lunch. 

Castela di Santa Caterina

Erice

Today we took a trip from Trapani to Erice a 12 century village overlooking Trapani which you get to via funicular. Lots of churches,  a Norman castle and quite a few souvenir shops plus spectacular views from its mountain top location. 

Glorious return to Sicily

 It's been 12 years since we were last in Sicily ...

We have returned, however unlike almost everyone in history we are not intending (at this stage) to conquer the Island, but rather to feast our eyes on its glory, and our mouths on grilled vegetables & wine (bring on the pasta alla Norma )

We were rudely awakened at 05:30 hours (I can neither confirm nor deny that, left to ourselves, we may have been sleeping in just a little past that time) by our alarm, to get to an 07:55 flight

Paolo and Valentina at Il Borgo B&B, Cagliari left us a beautiful breakfast and arranged for a taxi, we were thru customs and having (another) coffee by 06:45, after our previous airport security experience ( STILL TOO SOON TO TALK ABOUT ... looking into therapy when we return .. I hope our travel insurance covers psychological trauma ) we decided to pay extra for fast security clearance.

As we are in an apartment we are looking forward to a few meals at home. 

We arrived in Palermo Airport, and got a bus to Trapani, currently about 100m from the harbour, and 50m from the old town. Had a quick explore, but heading out soon for passigiata.

/ ˌPasɛˈdʒɑːtə /

noun : walk ; plural noun : walks

1. (especially in Italy or Italian-speaking areas) a leisurely walk or stroll, especially one taken in the evening for the purpose of socializing
2. 
   

Culture and wine - last day in Sardinia

We started the day with a trip to the food markets,  a visit to the Archaeological Museum and a wine tour in the Parteolla wine district just outside of Cagliari. Met the wine maker,  tasted some grape varieties we had never heard of plus some local grappa.

Cagliari

We are now in Cagliari the capital of Sardinia. It is the weekend and the place is buzzing. We are not used to so many people!  There was a Serie  B football match yesterday involving the local team and the town was swamped with supporters from both teams. The weather is very warm and everyone in Cagliari was out partying last night. There is a large citadel built by the Pisans and Aragonese which is a lovely area to walk through and a lively marina area.  

Petite trains are taking over the world

Lots of "young things" out on a Saturday nite.

A shame we got rid of our car .. I'd love to drive here 

Ill Bastioni

Cala Gonone - more caves

Weather is now nice.  Took a boat trip to Blu Marino cave and Cala Luna beach today. B and B has 2 dogs a cat and two racing turtles. 

Cala Gonone

Had a rather wet drive from Bosa to Cala Ganone yesterday. We are on the East Coast of Sardinia in the Golfo di Oresei. Drizzling this morning but fine this afternoon.  View from our balcony from our b and b. 

Bosa

Arrived in Bosa yesterday.   Lovely town on the river and a couple of kms from the beach. Tuscan's built the large castle overlooking the town.  There is even a Ponte Vecchio.

Alghero

We are in Alghero a town in north west Sardinia.  It was a Catalan colony in the1300s and a quarter of the population still speak Catalan as their first language.  There is a distinctly Spanish vibe here particularly in the old walled part of the town.  We took a boat trip today  to Neptune's Grotto one of the largest caves in Italy to view the stalagmites and stalagtites.

 Neptunes Caves Aleghro

Lunch View

Moon rise (Dinner View)

Just outside of Aggius

We are currently staying at an Agriturismo in the mountains in northern Sardinia. It seems that just about every farm has turned into a farmstay during the warmer months.  Our accommodation is rustic with two friendly dogs and a large family of free range pigs.  Dinner last night was rather large and could have included some of the pig family, dying for a good cause. It was finished off with some of the local murtle liqueur. Today we drove through the granite bouldered valley of the moon to the beach on the western coast about 30 minutes away. Isola Rossa so named due to its red coloured rocks and also nice for a swim. 

one of the cute resident dogs

Some of the pig family 

Santa Maria di Gallura

Yesterday we took the 50 minute ferry trip from Corsica to Sardinia to start our time in Italy.  Although only 17km across the water it does feel like southern Italy with a different vibe to Corsica.  We are staying in Santa Teresa di Gallura just at the northern tip of Sardinia. Shops close for about 4 hours in the afternoon and the pace is slow. Like Sicily, delicious cakes are served at breakfast so of course Kirk needed to sample. The weather was beautiful so we spent the day visiting the local beaches. 

The town beach

Kirk swimming 

A couple of kms from town

Last day in France

Last day in France today.  We are in Bonifacio. Morning boat trip to the grottoes then walk around the ramparts of the citadel

Bonifacio

 We arrived yesterday in the town of Bonifacio on the southern coast of Corsica.  we are staying in the old town which is part of the citadel.  We schlepped our bags up to our hotel (silly idea) given how steep the streets are. There are some strategically placed defibrillators around town.